Monday, December 23, 2013

On hold

I have come down with a bad cold so am lying low tonight so that I feel better tomorrow. I started getting a sore throat in the middle of the night..and I woke up with a full on cold.
Today, I went to The Peggy Guggenheim collection...
What a collection it is. I listened to a young docent give a talk on a Chagall painting.  The was a show on The Nablis painters that was very good.  The permanent collection is outstanding...my favorite....there was on painting called " summer on Cape Cod" with berry thick paint...non representational...was it a Rothko? I can see it, but can't remember. I also have a new appreciation for Redon and his very colorful pastels.

Then I walked around to the far side of the island that the museum is on. If possible it was colder and foggier today. You could barely see the other shore. It was very beautiful. I walked around the tip and then made my way back to the Accademia. I had a 1pm appointment. All of the Veronese and Tintoretto masterpieces are here. they also have a gorgeous Mantega St George, the famous Giorgione Tempest, a few Titians and a great Hans Memling self portrait that is so interesting to look at. It's not a very big collection. I wish I had felt better, I would have taken more time.
I love the very large religious themed paintings with their iconography. The tintorettos were incredible...so much to see in one painting. There were a whole series by Veronese and Tintoretto depicting the story of St. Mark...the freeing of the slave, the rescue at sea of the Sacren...so much depth...fascinating stuff to me.
I think my favorite was a painting by TitiN of an angel and a little boy . The angels robe featured the famous " titian red". And that Hans Memling portrait that would be considered Flemish.

After that, I got back on the Vaporetto and headed for Rialto. I had 2 recommend cations for restaurants I wanted to try. One was closed...I will try again...Mondays are problematic in Italy....but I found the other too. It is a seafood restaurant near the market. It was so small, you could barely turn around in this place. I had to take a small single table by the door. There was really nowhere to even walk in this place. It was pretty...dark wood and brass...it had a wall covered with famous people who had eaten the ...and famous reviews.
I had linguine with swordfish and olives...19€...plus 3.590 € service fee, which all restAurants in Venice charge...most 2€. The meal was fantastic! My bad cold has not effected my appetite.
I took pics which I will eventually get on the blog.
You just can't imagine how small this place is. While I was there, a man knocked over a chair, just trying to leave, and a woman knocked a bottle of olive lil and a bottle of vinegar off a table all over a mans coat...and it went crashing to the floor. I think they are used to things falling and breaking in this place.  I'm glad it wasn't me.
Everyone appears to be in the holiday spirit . There are aloof people standing outside  drinking wine, laughing...I wish France was more like this.

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